The dramatic towering cliffs contrast the clear turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea and are perfect for any shutter-happy tourist. Italy’s Polignano a Mar, is one coastal town in the largest region in Italy, Apulia (or Puglia in English) known for its picturesque mountain top villages and rolling countryside. The iconic beach town is popular with locals and tourists alike but doesn’t get overly touristy which makes it a fun leisurely beach day. The white pebble beach framed by the natural limestone walls of the Lama Monachile Beach (just to confuse you it’s also called Cala Porte) reminds me of the Grecian or Croatian shore. In fact this region dates back to Greece, back when it was part of mankind’s first democracy as part of Magna Grecia (ancient Greece). For those who may enjoy Sitges, Spain or Hydra, Greece this has a distinctively similar feel while enjoying its own Italian flair.
Polignano a Mare was our first stop (after a day of transportation in Bari) on a longer Puglia road trip. From Bari we rented a car and explored the Puglia region and the city of Matera in Basilicata. While we chose to drive, the train between Bari and Polignano a Mare is very straightforward and is roughly 30 minutes and around 3 euros. TIckets can be found on Omio here.
If you are also going to Bari, I recommend reading my guide to A Day in Bari.
The three areas in Polignano e Mar that are worth checking out are the town center, with many beach shops and restaurants; the iconic Lama Monachile Beach; and the vistas from the cliffside roads.
Parking is easiest to find near the train station or near the Museum of Contemporary Art. After parking or arriving by train, walk through the streets towards the main drag. The initial streets left with much to be desired, I wanted to know why this was such a destination. Then we got into the airy open Piazza Aldo Moro.
Make your way to the Lama Monachile Beach. The pebble beach can be hard on some people’s feet, but the water and the view are well worth it. While we did not have time to do this during our schedule, there is a boat tour which shows guests around the caves that is highly recommended! Tours can be secured at the tourist office (Via Martiri di Dogali, 2). This is also very close to il Mago Del Gelato (Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 22), which has great ice cream and coffee.
The restaurant La Pescaria (Piazza Aldo Moro, 6/8), is a true social scene. That being said, expect to wait to be seated. They have a reasonably priced menu with delicious local seafood, local wines and many people watching. Not to mention that the airy beach decor is great to sit around. This region is large in agriculture and you can eat fresh local produce in all your meals.
After spending some time at the beach or getting a boat tour, I recommend exploring the small town. Both Caffè Dei Serafini (Via S. Benedetto, 49) and La Cueva Cafè (Via S. Benedetto, 49) offers ample outdoor space to enjoy a drink while you can people watch. For those who are interested in art and have more time, the Museum of Contemporary Art Pino Pascali (Via Parco del Lauro, 119) provides a scenic respite from the hot sun.
Columbus, Ohio, the state captol, seems vastly underappreciated. As a college town, it has many cultural offerings, a substantial downtown and is the third largest fashion hub in America (after the well-stilettoed New York City and Los Angeles). The Sciota River traverses leisurely through the downtown and offers much natural beauty for exercising. Probably most famously, Columbus is home to The Ohio State University, the flagship public university in the state. Similar to other college towns, there is a large university presence and expect to see many locals in Buckeyes apparel. As a native Bostonian who now lives in NYC, I also observed that Columbus is notable for its characteristic warm people. The city is situated in the middle of the state of Ohio, and is a 3 hour drive to Ann Arbor, a 2 hours and 45 minutes drive to Indianapolis, and 3 hours to Pittsburgh which make Columbus a weekend getaway for many midwesterners, or a destination as part of a broader midwest tour. I personally went to Columbus for a wedding and tacked Cincinnati (a 2 hour drive south) onto my Ohio vacation. The city is very manageable for a weekend getaway as a couple, a group of friends or a family.
When to go: The best season for a visit is the early fall, when the weather first begins to get crisp, yet outdoor activities are still pleasant. Of course, you may want to include the experience of attendance at a big time college football game to see Columbus at its liveliest. Alternatively, the summers offer many outdoor activities on the lakes. The city has once-a-month gallery hops, which would be a great time to coordinate your trip (more info here).
Start your evening in the Short North Arts District. The name comes from a time when the neighborhood was a little rougher and police would call it just short of the north district in downtown. Like many neighborhoods with a similar history it is now a Bohemian enclave. The Short North centers around High Street and has interesting boutiques, restaurants and bars. A few of my favorite stores are Prologue Bookshop (841 N High St), where the owner, Dan, is the nicest guy and very helpful with book selections. Rocket Fizz (944 N High St), is a fun soda pop and candy shop and Homage (783 N High St) is a vintage tee shirts and hipster sportswear store. Being a hipster haven, Columbus also has a number of stores that sell vinyl records, such as Magnolia Thunderpussy (1155 N. High St). Grab some dinner from one of the many restaurants in the area! Two especially enjoyable features of the Short North are the steel archway over the public way and the street art, which is open and free. The city of Columbus has created a downloadable map of the public murals.
Start your morning with some form of exercise along the Scioto Mile, a picturesque downtown grouping of public parks and trails on the east bank of the Scioto River. There are many options for sightseeing in the area, including the use of rental bikes available at a reasonable cost at the CoGo bike stations. As a runner, I enjoyed an invigorating early morning jog while taking in the beautiful downtown riverviews. I love the iconic Main Street Bridge which is an inclined single-rib-tied arch bridge which opened in 2010 and the Rich Street Bridge which looks most glorious when lit up at night.
Based on the timing of the OSU football game, go for breakfast or lunch at the North Market (59 Spruce St), a classic downtown public market and food hall with a variety of restaurants. The original location of Jeni’s Ice Cream is here. Jeni’s has expanded throughout the midwest and is a crowd favorite. Rumor has it that the shop opened during an OSU/Michigan rivalry game and Jeni completely sold out of her ice cream! A few other favorites are Lan Viet Market for Vietnamese food and Dos Hermanos for tacos. The North Market Spices is another shop worth browsing.
If the schedule permits, plan on attending a big time Big Ten football game at Ohio State, and try to get there early, as parking is limited. You will get caught up in the art of pre-game tailgating on the way to the game. If you are not tailgating, another option is to try the vendors. The stadium is called the horseshoe or the “shoe” and seats over 100,000 enthusiastic fans. Get inside before kickoff so that you can get acclimated and check out some of the pageantry such as the band, the cheerleaders, the teams entering the stadium to raucous fans, and the singing of the National Anthem. The OSU campus also houses a modern art museum, Wexner Museum (1871 N High St). You can get a tour of the stadium (info here).
For those who are not in the least bit interested in college football, the Columbus Zoo & Aquarium (4850 W Powell Rd) or Center of Science and Industry or ‘COSI” (333 W Broad St) are great alternatives especially when travelling with children, and it has a dinosaur gallery. The Columbus Zoo & Aquarium complex includes an 18-hole golf course, a water park and an amusement park. The famous long time zoo director, Jack Hanna, has authored children’s books and hosted syndicated animal television shows. For those not travelling with kids the Franklin Park Conservatory and Botanical Gardens (1777 E Broad St) is another great non-football option!
In the evening, grab dinner at Thurn’s Speciality Meats (530 Greenlawn Ave) a specialty meat purveyor since 1886. Then make an appearance at a couple of the gastropubs in the Brewery District.
Start your morning in German Village, south of downtown. This historic neighborhood features old brick roads and German specialty restaurants founded after the arrival of the original European immigrants who made a community here. Get a jump-start on the day at Stauf’s Coffee Roasters (627 S 3rd St #1060) and then walk over to the Book Loft (631 S 3rd St), a 32 room bookstore which makes this the nation’s largest independent bookstore. (I do love bookstores!) The most famous German restaurants are Valters at the Maennerchor (976 S High St), Schmidt’s Sausage Haus (240 E Kossuth St) for a German hotdog, and next door, Schmidt’s Fudge Haus (220 E Kossuth St) for dessert. For those looking for a more upscale meal, Lindey’s (169 E Beck St) has great food and a lovely outdoor patio. Lastly, the former speakeasy, the Old Mohawk (819 Mohawk St) is worth a trip! Don’t forget to walk off all the German food with a stroll through quaint, Schiller Park.
After German Village, make your way north to the downtown area. The Statehouse is a Greek Revival style building with what looks like a birthday cake on top. You can get a guided tour of the Ohio State Capitol Building (1 Capitol Square, tours start in the Map Room which is easy to access from the 3rd street entrance). Walk by the Ohio Theater and a few other downtown buildings. Make your way to Topiary Garden, which depicts figures from Georges Seurat’s 1884 painting, A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte, at the Old Deaf School Park.
Cheers to a fun weekend getaway in the understated Columbus!
If you are looking for more weekends away, check out my weekend itinerary for another Midwest college town of Madison, WI, Ann Arbor, MI or a fun filled weekend in Chicago, IL.
Thank you to Christy for sharing some of your favorites with me!
Framingham, the third city along the Boston Marathon route, is located 30 miles west of Boston. The city brings to mind images of clusters of shopping malls and car dealerships. Yet, beyond these commercial images, Framingham offers a surprising amount of plenty of natural beauty, conservation land, and charming farmhouses and other attractions worth visiting.
Quirky Fact: Framingham was nicknamed “the largest town in the country” until it was voted to city status in 2017. As with most urban legends, the story was exaggerated, Framingham was the largest town in New England.
Here is an afternoon trip to Framingham to rebut the drive-by shopping-Mecca stereotype and take in its natural beauty:
Start your morning with a cup of coffee on the banks of the Sudbury River at the renovated Saxonville Mills. The refurbished industrial building with exposed beams, high ceilings, and expansive windows harken back to its former use as an early 19th century woolen mill and later as the Roxbury Carpet Company. Now with a renovation, Saxonville Mills Cafe and Roasting (2 Central St.) roasts their own coffee beans. Grab a pour-over coffee and a snack to start your day. The complex also houses The Mill Contemporary Art which hosts open studios the second Friday of each month.
Get some exercise and fresh air by hiking along the picturesque trails of Callahan State Park (1048 Edmands Rd.). With Baiting Brook leisurely running through the conservation land, it has 7 miles of trails on 820 acres of land. Framingham hosts many conservation lands, but Callahan State Park is a personal highlight. Alternatives include Garden in the Woods or the New England Wild Flower Society (180 Hemenway Rd), a 45 acres woodland botanical garden, or Nobscot Mountain (1 Nobscot Road, Sudbury, MA), 452-acre property between Sudbury and Framingham whose peak provides cascading views of the area.
After your hike, treat yourself with an ice cream from Eastleigh Farm’s Moo Bus. Their many soft cheese samples are worth trying. Also on the grounds of the farm, browse at the quaint Avenue C Design, a collection of some 20 artisans selling handmade and vintage goods, and at B. Barton and Co., an antique shop. The farm offers tractor and wagon tours of the farmland and animals. You will be surprised to find a serene dairy farm within the boundaries of busy Framingham.
Framingham also has two breweries which are worth a visit, Exhibit “A” (81 Morton St) and Jack’s Abbey (100 Clinton St). Jack’s Abbey has a robust outdoor beer garden which is great for social distancing.
“Get in, get a meal, and get out.” Is what we heard about this port city, university town and Capital of the Apulia (or Puglia in English) region of Italy. For those who say Italy looks like a boot, this is the capital of the “heel” region. We were pleasantly surprised by Bari when we arrived and spent a half day exploring. The Adriatic waterfront area is beautiful, the weaving streets of the old city were jam packed with historic appeal while still being manageable in a short amount of time. Puglia was once a part of mankind’s first democracy as part of Magna Grecia (ancient Greece), and the region is seeping in history. Do spend the half day recovering from your travels by exploring this transit hub before spending quality time in the picturesque whitewashed mountain top villages, rolling countryside and seaside towns in the Puglia region.
Arrive into Bari and get settled into your accommodation. Bari, with a large train station for the trek West to East and also a large port offering many ferries on the Adriatic Sea, most tourists stop here as a point of transit onto other destinations. For us, we had international flights from the USA to Rome, and then took the train to Bari. From Bari we were renting a car and exploring the Puglia region and Matera in Basilicata. With all the travel we spent a night in Bari to calibrate to the timezone and get over some jetlag.
The two areas of Bari to explore in this half day are the Murat area, which is the modern and mostly shopping district and the old town, Bari Vecchia, which includes historical sights such as churches, a castle and the old city walls.
Start your day by walking down the main pedestrian shopping street Via Sparano da Bari. Bari is the city where locals go to get their shopping done and the main pedestrian shopping street Via Sparano da Bari, offers many brands in case you forgot any items. They have Zara, H&M, and Sephora. Windowshop or pickup any forgotten items that you may need for your trip. Take a side track down Via Nicolò Putignani to look at the architecture on Teatro Petruzzelli (Corso Cavour, 12).
Making your way into the previously walled city or Bari Vecchia, the true highlight for me was walking the maze-like streets of the old town. Walk along the former walls of the city, Via Venezia, which overlooks the Adriatic Sea. Do not miss the 11th century Basilica San Nicolas (Largo Abate Elia, 13). Some of the remains of St. Nick or the original Santa Claus are in the crypt, which makes this a pilgrimage destination for many Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox Christians. The Bari Cathedral or Cathedral of San Sabino (Piazza dell’Odegitria) and Castello Normanno-Svevo (Via Pier l’Eremita, 25/b) originally built in 1132 are both worth a peek inside while exploring. Walk by the iconic pink Museo Teatro Margherita (Teatro Margherita, Piazza IV Novembre) which is situated on the waterfront.
While we did not get a walking tour, there are many free (or on tip basis) walking tours of the city that may be worth your while to get an understanding of the history of the region. For those who are interested in art and have more time, the Pinacoteca Provinciale di Bari or Painting Gallery of Metropolitan City of Bari (Via Spalato, 19) provides a scenic respite from the hot sun.
Get some dinner at La Tana del Polpo (Strada Vallisa, 50), it has an iconic giant plastic octopus on the ceiling like spiderman. The local restaurant has great service, local wines and fabulous seafood. The great thing about this region is that it is large in agriculture and you can eat fresh local produce in all your meals.
Ann Arbor, this vibrant college town (actually a city) is home to the flagship University of Michigan. Go Blue! Don’t expect to walk down a block without seeing at least ten people in Michigan Blue and Gold. I went to visit some friends who were going to University of Michigan for graduate school, but this can be a great pals getaway, family destination, or couples retreat. The idyllic Huron River traverses the city and adds a beautiful backdrop to admiring nature during the fall foliage season. The people are friendly, but a weekend getaway is definitely ideal for a college football fan or those interested in looking at midwest college towns.
When to go: I would recommend going in the Fall, when the weather is mild, the foliage is beginning to change, and the Michigan Football season is in full swing. If possible, try to align your visit with a Michigan football game. Timing wise, it is nice to have an evening game, so you can explore the city during the day. Yet, later in the season (Late October on) the weather can get very cold, so I would recommend an afternoon game if you are going in the late Fall. If you are not a fan of the Fall, summer is a great season to go for the great weather!
Getting there: there is an easy 45 minute bus called Michigan Flyer or the Air Ride that comes from the airport. Up to date schedules and booking can be found here.
Arrive into Ann Arbor and get settled into your accommodation. I was visiting friends so this involved many laughs and lots of catching up. Grab dinner at the wine shop and restaurant, Spencer (113 E Liberty St), which provides a seasonal menu and picnic-style seating. Santer on over to Bill’s Beer Garden (218 S Ashley St), which turns the parking lot of the century old Downtown Home & Garden and turns it into a beer garden featuring local brews!
For those who enjoy getting a workout in the morning, I would recommend going for a run in the U of M’s Nichols Arboretum (1610 Washington Heights). Head back and get ready for the day (which includes a game, so get some Wolverines apparel on!) Head to the Saturday morning Ann Arbor Farmers Market (315 Detroit St). Make sure to eat something hardy before the game! Take an hour to windowshop some of the downtown stores, while there are many small businesses they mostly cater to outdoorsmen, college students, or birkenstocks wearing hipsters.
Spend much of the afternoon at a University of Michigan game and tailgate. Tickets can be sold on stubhub or if you know a Michigan student there is a student marketplace where you can get tickets a few days before. University of Michigan has the largest stadium in the country (this includes professional stadiums). I went to a lively tailgate at the MBA Bus before the game! Legend has it that the land the stadium was built on was originally a lake and resulted in consistency similar to quicksand which caused an early crane to be engulfed under the stadium, where it remains today. Fact or fiction? We still don’t know!
For those who need a post game pick me up, I recommend coffee from the funky Roos Roast (117 E Liberty St).
In the evening, get dinner from Aventura (216 E Washington St), which has lovely decor, great tapas and tranquil outdoor seating on the back patio. Get a night cap while recapping the game at Jolly Pumpkin Café & Brewery (311 S Main St) which is a brewery offering high-end bar food and has a great upstairs deck.
Start your morning off with some breakfast sandwiches from The Jefferson Market (609 W Jefferson St). Then head to campus. If you have a friend who is a student at the Law School, get a brief tour and walk around the law library (801 Monroe St) which was the filming location for Harry Potter! Head over to the University of Michigan Museum of Art (525 S State St) to peruse some of the rotating artwork.
Don’t forget to grab a sandwich from Zingerman’s Delicatessen (422 Detroit St, Ann Arbor, MI 48104) before heading to the airport!
Cheers to a fun Wolverine filled weekend in Ann Arbor!
If you are looking for more weekends away, check out my weekend itinerary for another Midwest college town of Madison, WI, Columbus, OH or a fun filled weekend in Chicago, IL.
Madison, Wisconsin, “America’s Dairyland”, is known for their warm people, cold winters, and seasonal ales. Home to the Wisconsin State Capital and the flagship University of Wisconsin, similar to other college towns, there is a large university presence. As you may guess when looking at the Green Bay Packers mascot, the state is known for the dairy and specifically cheese production. While it may not be your cup of tea, I recommend trying some cheese curds while in town. The city is situated between Lake Monona and Lake Mendota, and is a 2.5 hour drive to Chicago and 4 hour drive to Minneapolis, which make Madison a great weekend getaway, or a destination among a larger midwest vacation.
When to go: The best season to go (in my opinion) is the early fall, when the weather first begins to get crisp, yet walking everywhere is still pleasant. The food and beer festivals in September located in capital square are one of the highlights. My favorite thing about Wisconsin is that when the weather gets cooler, dive bars have crock pots full of melted cheese with crackers. It feels like a party at someone’s house, all the locals seem to know each other but are friendly to visitors. Not to mention that Fall, you can coordinate with a college football game to really see Madison at its liveliest. Alternatively, the summers offer many outdoor activities on the lakes.
Get settled into your accommodation. Then start your evening at the gastropub, The Tipsy Cow (102 King St), where you can get a burger, beer and a side of cheese curds! If you are interested in the gastropub scene, walk the one block to Great Dane Pub (123 E Doty St). The Great Dane has pool tables and outdoor beer gardens, which make for a relaxed setting for a Friday night.
Start your morning with a tour of the Wisconsin State Capitol Building (2 E Main St) afterwards peruse the Dane County Farmers market called “Saturday in the Square”. Coming from an East Coast city, I have a great appreciation for anyone who has worked in the agriculture industry.
For those who are interested in architecture, take a quick sidetrack to Monona Terrace Community and Convention Center (1 John Nolen Dr), which is a Frank Lloyd Wright designed waterfront building. Return to the capitol building before window shopping State street west to the University. State Street is a vibrant street with a number of shops, restaurants and art galleries. It terminates at the university campus along with the Wisconsin Historical Society (816 State St) and Chazen Museum of Art (800 University Place).
Spend your late afternoon in the Swiss Village of New Glarus and eponym brewery. New Glarus was established as a Swiss Colony in 1845 and incorporated as a Village in 1901. The town retains its Swiss architecture and culture with chalet style houses and lovely quaint stores.
Work up an appetite walking around the large and tranquil University of Wisconsin Arboretum. Then get a well deserved hearty brunch from Mickies Dairy Bar (1511 Monroe St).
For those who have additional time, I would recommend a day trip to either Mount Horeb, the Norwegian village that has become the “Troll Capital of the World” or head to Taliesin Estate, Frank Lloyd Wright’s picturesque former home and the location for a grisly mass murder.
The raised terraced gardens provide the support to the town of Locorotondo (“round place”), which seems to levitate above the flat countryside dappled with wild red and yellow flowers and trullis as you enter the area. Locorotondo, known nationally as one of the “Borghi più belli d’Italia” (one of the most beautiful villages), is a charming town that provides a wonderful site for a leisurely day in the Puglian sun.
Located in the Valle d’Itria (the Trulli Valley) or the ‘top of the heel’ of Italy, Locorotondo is conspicuously charming, with winding roads of white washed houses decorated with bright-red pots of geraniums and wisteria cascading over stone walls.The green and blue shutters provide a contrast to the white marbles and tanned buildings.
Start your day with a coffee from Caffe della Villa in the center of ‘Centro Storico’ and Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. See locals get their coffee while standing.
The real joy of Locorotondo is leisurely wandering the streets. Take the afternoon exploring the alleyways in the center of town and take in the beautifully curated window boxes and terrace gardens. As a hilltop village, many of the streets offer panoramic vistas of the Trulli speckled countryside. Two such views are seen at gardens of Villa Comunale Giuseppe Garibaldi and also ironically named “Lungomare” (a road next to the sea..) on the adjacent Via Nardelli.
In the ‘Centro Storico’, don’t miss the chance to peek into three churches: Chiesa Madre di San Giorgio, Chiesa San Rocco and the Chiesa della Madonna della Greca.
We had a lovely local menu of the day dinner at La Taverna del Du (Via Papatodero 3), which is tucked away in one of the side streets. The region is known for orecchiette, which was part of the pre-fix menu. Other fine dinner option are Bina Ristorante Di Puglia (via Dottor Recchia, 44-50) and U’Curdunn (Vía Dura 19) which were both recommended while we were traveling but we were unable to try.
Cheers to a leisurely day in Locorotondo!
If you are exploring the Southern region of Italy, check out my itineraries for the Martina Franca and Matera.
‘Tragically beautiful’ Matera has gone from rags to riches over the past century. Evacuated in the 1950’s for rampant poverty and disease; Matera was awarded the UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1993 and 2019 as the European Cultural Capital.
Matera has been inhabited since the Paleolithic time. In ancient times, cave-dwelling (not to be confused with cavemen) settlers moved into the tofu rock caverns of the steep ravine. During the Neolithic Revolution these early dwellers learned to breed animals and eventually became herders and farmers, which they remained until the 20th century. Eventually more people moved in and the community of cave-like dwellings became known as the Sassi (Italian for “the stones”). You may recognize it as the backdrop for Jesus walking with the cross in Mel Gibson’s 2004 movie, The Passion of the Christ.
Having never had a ‘golden era’ for art and culture, Matera’s development has never been preserved in a time period. History has not been destroyed to glorify ornate palaces and city buildings stuck in time when the city flourished (such as Florence during the Renaissance and Venice in the Middle Ages). Therefore each house, or one could even say the city as a whole, has been continuously developed in a way mirroring the continuous human development.
In the 1940’s Carlos Levy, physician, painter and author was sent to exile in the south of Italy for anti-Fascist sentiments. Shocked by the rampant malaria and cholera he described the region as “a schoolboy’s idea of Dante’s Inferno” in a book about his year in exile. This propelled Matera into the public eye as Italy’s “la vergogna nazionale” (‘Shame of the Nation’). Levy’s book can be compared to Jacob Riis’ How the Other Half Lives: Studies among the Tenements of New York which propelled the United States to create social reform nearly a half century before.
Accommodation: We stayed in a carefully renovated, beautiful cave hotel called Corte San Pietro. I would recommend this distinct experience. If you want to read about a few of the other unique accommodation experiences in the south of Italy I wrote about it here: A Trulli, a Cave, and a Masseria oh my!
Getting there: this is the hardest part. Matera was a part of a week-long vacation in the Puglia region of Italy. We chose to take a train to Bari (so that we didn’t have to drive from Rome) and then rent a car. Renting a car is the easiest way to get around this region of Italy. There is a regional train that services Matera from Bari and runs everyday except Sundays.
I would recommend reading Carlos Levy’s book ‘Cristo si è fermato a Eboli’ or Christ Stopped at Eboli, about his year in exile in the Basilicata region of Italy.
My friend, Jen, from World On a Whim, recommended a ten day vacation to the Puglia region and Matera. We spent two nights and two days in Matera, and we felt that was the perfect amount of time.
Arrive into Matera. No amount of scrolling through photos prepared me for the utter awe that I felt when I arrived at the top of the sassi and was blasted with 180 degree falling views of the ancient ravine. Definitely take some time to let it sink in. In our case, we were in a car and that minute went on too long and we were quickly interrupted with honking from a car behind us! Nothing like modern traffic to bring you back to present. Get settled into your accommodation and get dinner in the sassi for your first night.
Start your morning in the new town at no frills Caffè Schiuma di Rocco Luigi Schiuma (Via T. Stigliani, 92). Spend a little bit of time walking around the Civic Center of the new town of Matera. I am recommending this, because I personally think it is interesting to see the more modern developed sections as a comparison to the Sassi.
The Sassi is best explored on foot. The whole city is walkable, so definitely pack good shoes because the incline and roads have been smothered over from so many pedestrians. I would recommend starting at Casa Noha (Recinto Cavone, 9) for a foundation of the history of Matera. They have multimedia displays, large video projections on the walls, and you move from different rooms to make the exhibit a little more interactive. Spend a few hours walking around the two Sasso Barisano and the Sassi Caveoso. Sassi Brisano is where all the shops and hotels are, whereas Sassi Caveoso is mostly caves. Briefly check out the Church of Saint Mary of Idris (Via Madonna dell’Idris). Make your way to Cathedral of Saint Mary ‘della Bruna’ and Saint Eustace in the Piazza Duomo. This cathedral is the highest point in Matera and is the middle point between the two Sassis.
In the early evening, get into your car and head to sunset at Asceterio di Sant’Agnese (Contrada Murgia Timone, 75100) or Belvedere di Murgia Timone. We plugged this address into the GPS, but had to park a little away in a parking lot. Make sure to leave to get settled before sunset and explore the green area and the isolated caves in the area.
Your accommodation should be able to recommend some restaurants based on your preferences. We ate at Da Zero (Via Madonna delle Virtù, 13) and loved the pizza. I would recommend getting an evening glass of wine at Enoteca Dai Tosi (Via Bruno Buozzi, 12) in one of the cozy alcoves. To enter you take a steep set of stairs into a cavernous interior that was a former cistern for drinking water.
Get a coffee and pastry at Caffè Vergnano 1882 (Via del Corso, 78) then ONLY if you are as big of a nerd as I am, I would recommend going to Museo di Palazzo Lanfranchi (Piazetta Pascoli 1). The Palazzo itself is intriguing architecturally speaking. Yet, I truly went just to see Carlos Levy’s moving large installation portraying the poverty in the 20th century that led to his book.
The museum is located in Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli (Piazzetta Pascoli) which offers a wonderful view of the Sassi from the new town and should not be missed. Again, spend your day walking around the Sassi. I went to the La Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario (Vico Solitario, 11), which I realize is the 3rd museum in two days but I truly wanted to see what it would actually feel like to live here back in the 20th century.
Get a cocktail at Area 8 (Via Casalnuovo, 15) this area, which encompasses Enoteca Dai Tosi, can be very lively at night with college students and it’s great for people watching.
Andalusia, the heart and soul of Spain, has much to offer visitors to Southern Spain, from flamenco, Moorish architecture, and great food. Tapas, or small plated meals, originated in Andalusia as a free accompaniment to an alcoholic beverage at a bar, but are now offered as a meal of sampling and sharing with friends. Bars in Granada have held on to tradition and still offer free tapas with a drink. Andalusia has characteristically warm welcoming people, a relaxed atmosphere, and is known for its Pueblos Blancos (white washed towns) which make for a great European destination. If you are planning on travelling to this southern region the highlights are: Sevilla, the birthplace of Flamenco; Granada, with the Moorish Fortress known as the Alhambra; Córdoba, which has the church turned mosque turned church called the Mesquita; Rhonda, with the arched bridge over a deep ravine; and then the port cities of Cadiz and Málaga.
Here is a ten day itinerary for the best of Andalusia. There is so much to see in the region, so I had to narrow down the itinerary to the best of Andalusia for history and culture. Three cities for overnight stays, Sevilla, Granada, and Málaga, are included in the itinerary as are a few day trips.
Transportation: All of the cities and locations in the itinerary are accessible by train and bus. Travel by train is far nicer than by bus, and you can get relatively cheap tickets for travel between all the cities if you book in advance (roughly 10 euros in advance versus 40 euros if last minute). As an alternative, you can rent a car for the entire ten days, but most of the cities are very walkable, and you would not need a car once you get to these destinations.
Day 1: Sevilla
Sevilla, the birthplace of flamenco, gives the visitor a feel for traditional Spain.This quintessentially picturesque city has many tiled buildings, intricate ornate interiors, and horse-drawn carriage rides in plazas bustling with life.
Arrive in the evening and get settled into your lodging. Take a walk along the beautiful Guadalquivir River which traverses through the city, separating the Triana neighborhood from the more historic sites in the center. The most scenic part of the river walk is between the two bridges, Puente de Sal Telmo and Puente de Triana (also called “Puente de Isabel”). Don’t miss walking by the Torre de Oro (Tower of Gold). You may want to browse in Ceramica Santa Ana, a tile store. After your walk treat yourself to a leisurely paella meal at Victoria 8 (Calle Victoria, 8). While paella is better known in the Valencia region, Victoria 8 does an amazing job with paella and it’s a great way to kick off your Spanish vacation.
Day 2: Sevilla
Start your morning with a free walking tour , which will give you an understanding of the layout and history of the city. The tour ends at Plaza de España, a beautiful municipal building with an ornately tiled plaza. Both were built for the 1929 World’s Fair. Fun fact: if you have seen the 2012 Sasha Baron Cohen movie, Dictator, this is the setting for the palace scenes. You can easily spend an hour here walking around and taking photos of the building and grounds. While in the area, walk through the Parque de Maria Luisa and Plaza de las Americas both of which are beautiful.
After viewing the tiles in Plaza de Espana, enjoy a leisurely lunch at Restaurant Orizo (Calle San Fernando, 41, 41004 Sevilla, Spain). It is across from an old factory building that is now part of the University of Sevilla.
Enjoy some down-time before a late-evening dinner, keeping in mind that the Spaniards eat dinner around 9:00 pm. Start your evening by walking around Las Setas de Sevilla, a huge wooden structure that resembles a mushroom. I recommend dinner at Becerrita (Calle Recaredo, 9) before heading to La Carboneria (Calle Céspedes, 21, A,) for a flamenco show. Flamenco can be found in the rear covered terraza and is free when you order a drink.
Day 3: Day trip to Cadiz
Take a morning train to Cadiz, roughly an hour south of Sevilla, and one of Europe’s oldest cities. Cadiz is a port city on the Costa del Luz (“Coast of Light”), which is the part of Andalusia that faces the Atlantic Ocean. Grab a coffee and some fresh produce from Mercado Central (Plaza de la Libertad) and take a walk around the city, which has a great tourist center and well-marked trails through the downtown area. Don’t miss the Cathedral, including its crypt in the basement, located in the aptly named Plaza de la Catedral. I would recommend climbing the belltower of the Cathedral and then making your way over to Torre Tavira (Calle Marqués del Real Tesoro, 10) for a 360 degree view of the city.
If the weather is nice, you may enjoy going to the beach at Playa de la Caleta, which is located between a castle and a fort. For those with an adventurous side: you can jump off the bridge of the fort into the water!
After relaxing at the beach, get some lunch from Casa Manteca (Calle Corralón de los Carros, 66). It has a very authentic feel, fully-stocked with hundred year old bottles of sherry and eclectic photos of bullfighters on the walls. I personally loved their cheese (“Queso” in Spanish). Take a late afternoon train back to Sevilla.
Upon your return to Sevilla, relax and get ready for a tapas tour in the center area. I recommend starting at Bar Alfalfa, then continuing to El Garlochi, Los Coloniales, El Rinconcillo, and Taberna Manolo Cateca. None of these tapas restaurants are more than a ten minute walk from each other.
The restaurant at Bar Alfalfa (Calle Candilejo, 1) has great outdoor and indoor seating. I suggest that you try the bruschetta con salmorejo. Next stop is the unique bar, El Garlochí (Calle Boteros, 26), which is dedicated to a year-long celebration of Semana Santa (‘Holy Week’), and is completely decked out in statues, paintings, candles and other religious memorabilia. Some visitors may find El Garlochí to be creepy, but most find it interesting and certainly memorable. When heading to Los Coloniales (Plaza Cristo de Burgos, 19), be aware of which address you are using because there is also a place called Taberna Coloniales. At Los Coloniales, I recommend the roquefort cheese with raspberries and the Chorizo a la Asturiana. Take a three minute, three block walk to the next stop, El Rinconcillo (Calle Gerona, 40). This restaurant/bar was opened in 1670 before America was a country! When I was there, the proprietors were into their 8th generation of ownership. I highly recommend the ortiguillas fritas and olives. Our last stop is Taberna Manolo Cateca (Calle Sta. María de Gracia, 13) for a glass of sherry from this local tavern. Before heading home, I suggest walking through Plaza Salvador, where many young people enjoy botellón (the colloquial word for drinking in the street) and people flow out of the restaurants and bars that surround this lively plaza. It is interesting to see how the locals socialize.
Day 4: Sevilla
Start your morning at the Seville Cathedral, the world’s largest Gothic Church and the third largest Cathedral in the world. As with most of Andalusia, this Cathedral and later the Alcázar of Sevilla has switched hands between Muslim and Christian rule, and much of the architecture reflects the different times of rule. Many famous people are buried here, including Christopher Columbus and his son, Ferdinand. Make your way up the sloping ramps of the tower, Giralda, which was once the minaret when this site was a mosque. Ramps were built instead of stairs, so horseback riders can easily ascend to the top. Enjoy your exit from the Cathedral through the Patio de Naranjos (Patio of Oranges), which is a beautiful creation.
Take a one minute stroll to the Alcázar of Seville, a Moorish royal palace and fortress. It has extensive fountain-filled gardens, ornate arches and tiles. This is where Game of Thrones filled The Water Gardens and Sunspear, the seat of House Martell in Dorne. You might compare it to the Alhambra in Granada, although the Alhambra is more impressive.
Treat yourself to a well-deserved lunch at Casa Robles (Calle Álvarez Quintero, 58) near the Cathedral. After lunch, I recommend getting lost in some of the center streets. For those who want to relax, consider booking an appointment (in advance) at Aire Ancient Bath House (Calle Aire, 15) an Arab spa housed in an historic mudéjar-style palace. The lighting, soft music and scent of jasmine will make this massage a mystical and memorable experience.
In the evening try a tapas tour in the Triana neighborhood. Betis Street, which overlooks the Guadalquivir River, is known for its nightlife although it may cater to a younger crowd. The three restaurants Taberna Sol y Sombra (Calle Castilla, 147), Blanca Paloma (Calle San Jacinto, 49), and Vega 10 (Calle Rosario Vega, 10) all offer great dining options in the area. After sampling your fair share of tapas, head to Casa Anselmo (Calle Pagés del Corro, 49) which provides live music, mostly flamenco shows, with your choice of beverage. If you are interested in getting up and dancing, the lively bar Lo Nuestro (Calle Betis, 31) has live music and the crowd does flamenco dancing. Keep in mind that the Spainiards eat dinner around 9:00 pm, so many of these bars will not have many patrons until well after that.
Day 5: Granada
Granada is the impressive former Moorish stronghold on the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains known for the Alhambra, the Moorish palace and fortress complex that is a UNESCO world heritage site. Catch an early morning train to Granada.Get settled into your accommodations and regroup before heading out to the Albayzin neighborhood. The Albayzin, which is an ancient Moorish village, is now a world heritage site. The winding streets with various vendors may remind you of a medina in Morocco. I highly recommend stopping in at least one of the many artisan shops and then getting tea at one of the teterias.
Begin your tour of Albayzin at the Albaicín district with its narrow streets and small houses reflective of its Medieval Moorish past, and then explore the smaller Realejo or Jewish quarter. There are a number of restaurants centered around the Campo del Príncipe, which is a good spot to use for navigation. Get some churros con chocolate from the local favorite, Café Fútbol (Plaza de Mariana Pineda, 6). After your sweet treat head to the Cathedral of Granada (Calle Gran Vía de Colón, 5) and Royal Chapel, which is the burial place for Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand. Spend an hour or so looking at the Cathedral and Chapel. The 5 euro entrance comes with an audio guide. After exploring the Cathedral, grab a pick- me-up from Mercado San Agustín (Plaza de San Agustín), a 3 minute walk from the Cathedral. Mercado San Agustín has many stalls which sell tapas, and you can also find fresh produce and hams.
For those who want a little more history and culture, you can stop into the Centro Jose Guerrero, Centro Federico Garcia Lorca, or Huerta de San Vicente (Federico Garcia Lorca’s house and gardens). Make your way to Mirador San Nicolás for beautiful sunset views of the Alhambra. I recommend getting dinner in the area to complete a memorable tour.
Day 6: Granada
Make reservations in advance for a timed ticket to see the extensive Alhambra, and you might want to visit the remains of the Generalife. This will end up being a half day tour to explore the magnificent fortress and all it has to offer as well as the beautiful gardens. The Alhambra was built in AD 889 on the remains of a Roman fortress. It was renovated by the Moors in the mid 13th century, and then went on to house the Catholic Monarchs, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. This is the site in which they gave endorsement for Christopher Columbus’ expedition. The Generalife, built in the 13th and 14th centuries, was the summer palace and country estate of the Nasrid rulers of the Emirate of Granada in Al-Andalus.
The Parador de San Francisco is one of the few places near the Alhambra that serves food. If you are ready for a break and a meal or snack after touring Alhambra and the adjacent grounds, I would suggest that you visit the beautiful Parador hotel.
After your time in the Alhambra, I would recommend walking along the River Darro. You will pass by many churches and 17th century stone bridges. Afterwards, you might want to explore the Albaicín neighborhood, above the River. Don’t miss Calle Caldereria Nueva with its many artisan shops, tetarias (teashop), and hookah lounges. I would recommend stopping at one of the tea parlors for a break from window shopping and store browsing.
In the evening, make it to the Barrio del Sacromonte, the old Gitano (Gipsy) neighborhood to explore the many cavernous Flamenco shows. Cueva de la Faraona (Calle Santo Sepulcro del Sacromonte, 51), Zambra María la Canastera (Camino del Sacromonte, 89), Cueva de la Rocio (Camino del Sacromonte, 70) or Venta El Gallo (Barranco de los Negros, 5,) all provide interesting music in the area.
Day 7: Málaga
Málaga is a relatively small port city, which can mostly be toured in a day. The main streets are beautiful, marble and clean! Who has marble streets? I chose the last three days in Málaga as a stepping stone to get to other locations, and to have a manageable homebase.Málagat is the birthplace of Antonio Banderas and Pablo Picasso and its place on the art and culture scene is on the rise. Located in the Costa Del Sol, Málaga is the gateway to many beach communities such as Marbella, Nerja, and Fuengirola.
If you are using public transit, you can take the train or bus from Granada to Málaga. I recommend starting your visit with a walk to Calle Molina Larios, as the streets are marble-lined, and this is the central walkway through the downtown shopping district. Walk through Plaza Constitution and make sure you go all the way to Plaza de La Merced. The Picasso Museum is here, which cannot compare to the Museums in Madrid, but it is worth a visit.
Get a cup of coffee and people-watch at Café Central (Plaza de la Constitución, 11). Postcards naming and describing their various coffees, depending on the espresso-to-milk ratio, are a cool remembrance. Walk by the Cathedral, colloquially called “La Maquita” which means the one-armed lady. Legend has it that at the time the church was being constructed, the Queen could either finish the other steeple or fund the explorations of Christopher Columbus, and thus the second steeple on this church was never completed. In the same plaza as the Cathedral is a restaurant called “Cheers,” and Spain had their own spin-off of the Boston landmark pub.
After working up an appetite, head out east for a late lunch at Chiringuito El Tintero. A chiringuito is a small waterfront eating-place which may range from a tiki bar to a full-service restaurant. Most of the chiringuitos I have tried in Málaga buy freshly-caught fish from local fishermen which are then cooked on pitfire in the sand. One of the best-known local restaurants is called El Tintero (Av. Salvador Allende, 340), which is a large restaurant with abundant patio seating located in El Palo, a fishermen’s town just east of Málaga. Customers order “auction style,” where waiters walk around calling out the dishes that they have in their hand. Customers then flag the waiter down to get that dish. I would recommend the well-known Málaga dish espeto, consisting of sardines cooked by a fire in the sand. Enjoy the nearby beach. Chiringuito Baños del Carmen/El Balneario (Calle Bolivia, 26,) is also highly recommended and is a slightly more upscale alternative to El Tintero.
On your return, enjoy a stroll around the port and the Paseo del Parque. The port was completely industrial until the city renovated it into a chic shopping and eating district in 2011. Paseo del Parque, which is a pretty tree-enclosed waterfront walkway which is also scenic . This walkway is also scenic along the city side, with views of gardens and the town hall.
In the evening get some tapas in the center of the city. There are many fine choices and one that comes to mind is called Pepa y Pepe (Calle Calderería, 9).
Day 8: Day trip to Ronda + sentinel de las bodegas + el pimpi
This is the only day trip for which I would suggest renting a car, but if you choose to take public transit you may want to skip Sentenil De las Bodegas.
Start your morning in Sentenil de las Bodegas. Houses in this iconic town were uniquely constructed within rock overhangs overlooking the Rio Guadalporcún. The name Setenil is believed to originate in the latin septem nihil (‘seven times nothing’) and it references the seven sieges that were needed for the Christian forces to conquer this city from the Moors in the 15th century.
If you opt to visit Sentenil de las Bodegas, your next stop should be Ronda. For those using public transportation, you can skip Sentenil de las Bodegas and take a bus from Málaga directly to Ronda. Ronda is a mountaintop city featuring a dramatic gorge with a beautiful bridge running through it.
Check out the three bridges, Puente Romano, Puente Viejo and Puente Nuevo or “New Bridge” which was actually built in the 1700’s and which is the most dramatic. When you tour the city, I would recommend walking around the patio of The Hotel Parador, which has great views of the mountains, and then see Puente Nuevo. Try the restaurant bar El Lechuguita (Calle Virgen de los Remedios, 35), a local gem which offers inexpensive and traditional tapas, with a surprising view of Puente Nuevo. Also in Ronda is the cavernous and historic Bull Ring at Plaza de Toros de Ronda. The city is home to the Romeros, a famous bullfighting family, who are referenced in Ernest Hemingway’s classic novel, The Sun Also Rises. For those who are looking to get their heart rate going, you can hike down to the scenic viewpoint at La Hoya Del Tajo, which provides beautiful views of the gorge(ous) city. Be warned that the slope of the terrain is quite steep.
Head back to Málaga and regroup at your lodging before setting out to dinner. Enjoy a late meal at El Pimpi (Calle Granada, 62, 29015) which is a fun place to “see and be seen.” Andalusia is known for its fried fish (pescaditos fritos), and I suggest that you try the fried fish platter. If you are outside on the patio, you can see the Teatro Romano (Roman Theater) and above it a Moorish fortress, Alcazaba. I recommend getting a bottle of the sweet wine to share for the table.
Day 9: Day trip to Córdoba
Córdoba is a beautiful city located one hour and fifteen minutes north of Málaga.Every spring, Córdoba bursts into fragrant bloom with the famous Feria de los Patios Festival, and the month of May brings the “Battle of the Flowers,” in which labyrinth-like streets with white washed homes compete for the most beautiful flower boxes. The main attraction in Córdoba is the Mesquita, which is a uniquely ornate building that is both a Mosque and a Cathedral, drawing to life the back and forth rulership between the Islamic Moors and the Christians. The entire tour will take a few hours.
Get some lunch at either Taberna Salinas (Calle Tundidores, 3) or Taberna San Miguel Casa El Pisto (Plaza de San Miguel, 1). Spend some time strolling around the city center and exploring the sights and sounds of Córdoba.
Return to Málaga to get a late dinner at Chiringuito Gutierrez Playa (C/ Pacífico, 29). This is located near the beautiful Parque del Oeste and Chuiringuito, along with most other restaurants, is located on the beach. After dinner, if you are looking for a treat, take a ten minute walk to get ice cream from the Málagano favorite, Heladería Inma (Calle Moreti, 15).
Day 10: Málaga
Start your morning with a hike to the Alcazaba, a fortress built by the Hammudid dynasty in the 11th century. There are magnificent views of the city, the sea and the beaches from the top! If you are looking for a coffee break, walk to the Parador de Málaga Gibralfaro. In Spain, a parador is a state run hotel located in castles or fortresses. After your hike head out to the airport, to the end of your fun-filled vacation in Andalusia!
Charlottesville, VA is a quaint college town (actually a city) surrounded by rural Virginia. Considered the Gateway to the Shenandoah National Park, Charlottesville has a beautiful mountain backdrop and much of the city is centered around the flagship University of Virginia. Having historic roots in early colonial days, the area boasts home to the estates of Founding Fathers (and early American Presidents) James Monroe, Thomas Jefferson, and James Madison. 2.5 hours south of Washington D.C, Charlottesville is a fun country getaway and as the slogan Virginia is for Lovers gives way, the people are warm and welcoming.
Timing: Charlottesville is best visited in the Fall and Spring for the weather. Both in the spring and the fall are Foxfield Races, or steeple races which has become a University of Virginia tradition. You can coordinate with the time of the race if you wish to attend, if you do not wish to attend, I would recommend avoiding this weekend since everything will be far more crowded.
Arrive into Virginia and get settled into your accommodation. Charlottesville is easily accessible by train, but for many of the sites you do need a car to get around. I had a couple of friends who were either going to school at UVA or working at the hospital and were great hosts when I visited! Get some dinner and explore the Downtown Mall. Centered around Main street, the Downtown Mall is an 8 block pedestrian mall with a number of restaurants, bars and shops.
Before leaving grab some grub and coffee to go from Paradox Pastry (313 2nd St SE #103). Then start your morning off by visiting Thomas Jefferson’s plantation, Monticello (931 Thomas Jefferson Parkway, Charlottesville, VA). Ironically, the same man who wrote the Declaration of Independence (“All men are created equal”) was also a slave owner. The museum is not skittish of Jefferson’s controversial past. Historic Michie Tavern (683 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy) is a five minute drive from Monticello, for those who may be interested in a glass of wine. Fun fact: the current Nickel depicts Monticello on the back of it.
Both James Monroe’s Highland (2050 James Monroe Pkwy) and James Madison’s Montpelier house museums are local, too. If you have a preference as to which early president’s home you are most interested in! Maybe I should give my home a name and I will become a president!
After getting your fix of history, get your wine tasting on. My favorite vineyard is Pippin Hill Farm and Vineyard (1616, 5022 Plank Rd, North Garden, VA 22959). It is great to sit outside and enjoy wine tasting with a few snacks. If you want to continue, I would recommend Blenheim Vineyards (31 Blenheim Farm, Charlottesville, VA 22902). For those who wish to pack a sandwich for picnic at the vineyards, Ivy Provisions (2206 Ivy Rd) is an upscale deli offering many options.
Come back to town and refresh before going out to dinner at the Ivy Inn Restaurant (2244 Old Ivy Rd), The restaurant serves elevated American food in a charming 19th century home, and I recommend sitting on the patio. The Belmont Neighborhood of Charlottesville also offers many culinary delights. Local (824 Hinton Ave) is another favorite restaurant where you can get great mac and cheese and malbec! You can get a slop bucket from Belmont BBQ (816 Hinton Ave) or Mas (904 Monticello Rd) for some great tapas.
For those who want to get outdoors, grab a coffee from Mudhouse Coffee or Shenandoah Joe Ivy before heading to Humpback Rocks Hike (Milepost 5.8 Blue Ridge Parkway, Lyndhurst, VA 22952). This hike on the Blue Ridge Mountains offers splendid views and can be really magnificent in the Fall.
After returning to Charlottesville, get some well-deserved New York style bagels at Bodo Bagels (505 Preston Ave). Reserve a guided historical tour of the University of Virginia (sign up here). The University was founded in 1819 by Thomas Jefferson, and the original Board of Visitors included Jefferson, James Monroe (who was the sitting President at the time) and James Madison. Do not miss the iconic and Jefferson designed Rotunda. Head back to your accommodation and off back home.
Cheers to a relaxing weekend getaway in Charlottesville, VA!